I was a traditional “jock”-type kid growing up. Between baseball, basketball, and soccer practices with a few golf and tennis lessons mixed in, I developed skills that I thought I would carry with me for the rest of my days as a professional 5-sport athlete. When skateboarding and punk rock entered the equation, however, all of those talents rushed out of the window to make room for the chords of Ramones songs and foot placements for different flip tricks. My love of everything under the “extreme sports” umbrella grew, and despite not being the most graceful guy to ever step on a board, I went at it with an apprentice’s diligence. All of the work would eventually pay off in the form of an exhilarating career as a working musician and professional skateboarder and surfer. Right?
A few scrapes and a whole lot of years later, I’m just a guy. I saw the light eventually and decided, much to my chagrin, that I didn’t really have what it takes to do anything within miles of what could be deemed professional. But my admiration for those who do hasn’t subsided–The Clash still blare as loudly as ever in my headphones and my heart still beats with a teenager’s excitement when I witness a successful kickflip.
Just like I never miss a San Francisco Giants game, I never turn down the opportunity to watch the best go at their craft with the precision I envy. In the extreme sports world, whenever I find myself lucky enough to be traveling to Oahu, this means carving out a block of time, making my way up to North Shore, and watching the surfers cut and glide across these mammoth faces of water that contain bone-crushing amounts of force with poise and finesse.
The drive out to North Shore from Honolulu–where the prospect of uninhibited relaxation at one of the many Waikiki hotels is difficult to ignore–is a beautiful one. Once you reach the shore on the Kamehameha Highway, Waimea Bay—a legendary surf spot, home to some of the world’s most monstrous waves–isn’t far. During the winter months, the swells that make their way towards the beach are only fit for the best in the world, and should you make your way there during this time, you will be treated to a spectacular show that is bound to take your breath away. The phrase that you’ll undoubtedly hear uttered by other spectators is, “Did you just see that?!”
Maybe the experience will convince you to paddle out yourself for the first time, albeit on some of the softer waves closer to Waikiki and The Modern Honolulu. How you channel inspiration will depend on your interests, obviously–but for me, watching the best surfers on Oahu takes me to a place where I have the desire to learn and to get better at the things I love to do now.
I have always wanted to go surfing in Honolulu but plane tickets to hawaii are so expensive. Beautiful photos.