(The welcome center staff in Jujuy)

After an amazing first day in Salta Rocio and I woke up early to go explore the Northern most province of Argentina, Jujuy. We planned to head up there first because we wanted to be back in Salta for the weekend to see the Argentina World Cup match and the big bicentenerio festival.

We packed up our stuff and headed for the Salta bus station. Buying tickets at the station is really easy if you know what you're doing. There are a ton of different companies that run trips throughout Argentina so you just have to ask around for the best price and time. 

Luckly we only had to wait about 20 minutes before the next bus came through for San Salvador de Jujuy, the capital city of the Jujuy Province. (about a 2-hour trip, $28pesos/ticket) 

Side Note: A little tip when checking your bags on the bus is to keep an eye on them from the bus window until they close the baggage storage door. Rocio was telling me that sometimes they check your bags and someone will come by and take them out right before the bus takes off. 

San Salvador de Jujuy isn't like Salta, It's a little rough around the edges. Regardless, we sucked it up and walked a solid 20 minutes from the bus station to the car rental place as we were eye-balled by locals. Even though Rocio is Argentine she is a Porteña and not a Norteña so she almost got as many weird looks as the giant Yankee. 

(Ridin' Dirty in Jujuy)

Sudamericas Car Rental was the company we booked the car reservation through and for $200 pesos a day (and unlimited km) it was a pretty good setup. The only thing I was nervous about was how I was going to navigate my way through the narrow, busy streets of San Salvador after not driving anything other than a scooter in the last 8 months (not to mention a stick shift). 

However, as soon as I saw the car we'd be driving all my fears subsided. It was a beautiful primer-grey VW Gol with 2 spacious doors, AM and FM radio (that didn't work) and a backseat that could fit one person uncomfortably. We definitely didn't need the much larger, gas-guzzling WV Golf... hmm...  

After some quick maintenance tips and a lap around the car for insurance purposes, the Rental guy gave us a map, the keys and said "suerte" (good luck). So, just like that, with my trusty co-pilot and our new hot rod, we were off. The only problem was neither of us knew where we were off to! 

Despite almost getting t-boned on our first turn out of the parking lot, we managed to escape the busy workday traffic unharmed. From there on out it was smooth sailing. 

(The scenery on our way to the Salinas Grandes) 

Once you hit the Jujuy countryside you feel like you're in a different world. The rock formations from one mile to the next are all unique and the colors change as fast as you can turn your head. The winding roads makes driving difficult but its the views that captivate your attention long enough to damn near kill ya. Focus!

The goal for the day was to see the Salinas Grandes and the Cerro de los Siete Colores (7-color hill) in Purmamarca before heading to Tilcara to spend the night. We decided to venture to the furtherest point first (Salinas Grandes) and make our way back through Purmamarca to Tilcara in the evening. 

The drive was long and beautiful. We made our way through deserts filled with cactuses, rolling green hills and red rocks that reminded me of Moab, Utah. The terrain was so diverse, like nothing i've ever seen before. 

From a distance the Salinas Grandes looked like a giant frozen lake. Out of nowhere appeared this giant white flat with dry brown and red mountains on all sides. It looked like something you'd find on Mars. There was no town around, just a small little tourist station with bathrooms and a bunch of salt workers staring at us as we came and went.  

(Rocio exploring the space)

We turned off the major road and drove right out on the salt flats where a small mix of tourists and actual workers united. After a must-needed photo shoot we walked around aimlessly just marveling at this crazy landscape. After about an hour we picked our jaws back up, ran around a bit and then jumped back in the car to begin our trek to Purmamarca. 

The provence of Jujuy is rich with indigenous tradition and Purmamarca was our first real experience with the native culture. The village is small, friendly and quiet. Skinny dogs scavenge around the red dirt roads as village people don't pay much attention to the foreigners. The low tourist population allows you to see a real glimpse of life without tons of souvenir shops, beggars or... tourists. 

We spent the late afternoon poking around as we made our way up to a small hill that overlooked the town and gave you a great view of the 7-color mountain. Like the name suggests, it's a remarkable rock formation that takes a little color from all the mountain ranges we had seen that day and splashes them all together on one giant, incredible canvas. 

(Cerro de los Siete Colores in Purmamarca)

As the sun went down we thought it would be a good idea to find our way to Tilcara where we'd be spending the night. It was a quick drive from Purmamarca but by the time we got into town the sun had set so it made the hunt for our hostel a little more difficult.

Positioned on a hill above Tilcara, the Malka Hostel isn't the easiest places to find, but that's what makes it such a gem. We parked the car a few streets below the super-steep dirt road that leads up to the main gate and walked our way up to the entrance. It was like a Spanish summer-camp with beautiful log cabins, a super friendly owner and clean comfortable rooms. The place was spectacular, but we were beat... we'll check out the rest of the place tomorrow... but for now... zzzzzzz.  

(The Malka Hostel entrance in Tilcara)

 (My champagne glass had a hole in it. Welcome to first class treatment in Argentina)

The juice was worth the squeeze. That's really all I can say to justify the 18+ hour micro (bus) ride from Buenos Aires to Salta. Despite the terrible food and awkward choice of man-eating-crocodile flicks, the bus ride itself might have been the most efficient and organized service I've experienced here in Argentina. Unlike an airplane ride, the stewardess keeps you on a strict schedule of eating and drinking,  she'll even wake you up mid-nap to tell you its dinner time.  They also provide you with enough free alcohol to make sure that once its time for bed... you're kaput.

I regained consciousness around 9am as the stewardess came around to wake everybody up for breakfast. We dined on some crackers with dulce de leche and a few small granola bars. I actually traded one of my dulce de leche packets with a lady across from me straight up for an extra granola bar... jackpot! 

(Plaza 9 de Julio in downtown Salta) 

Entering into Salta was a lot different than I imagined. After driving into Rosario, Argentina I expected the city limits of Salta to be lined with villas and slums, rather than beautiful modern homes. Despite the definitive Argentine touch, it was like we were driving through a normal US suburb. The city was clean and beautiful. The air was fresh and cool. The people were darker, shorter and had big smiles. The hostel was... interesting.

Perfect for a group of backpacking buddies, the Exxes Hostel was fun, friendly and cheap, very cheap. It's a hostel you go to if you're not going to stay long in the hostel. The bathrooms were less than spectacular and the rooms were weathered yet functionable. It wasn't really the best place for my hygenie-consious companion, but she sucked it up as we showered quick and hit the town. 

We cruised by the impressive Inglesia San Francisco (Church) and picked up some delicious $1 peso empanadas as we passed through the Mercado Artesanal (market). We made our way through the city by foot and ended up in San Martin Park at the gondola to Cerro San Bernardo. 

(The view from atop Cerro San Bernardo) 

Cerro San Bernardo is a hill that lies on the edge of town which overlooks the entire city of Salta. Rocio and I paid the $20 pesos and hopped on the quick Teleferico (gondola) ride up to the top. The summit came complete with a nice little park, fake waterfalls and great view-points of the city. In retrospect, it was the perfect place to kick off the trip and get a grip on Salta. 

We hiked our way back down via a foot trail that led us to the Monumento a Güemes (Güemes Monument) where we broke out the Mate and watched the sun go down. 

(Drinking some mate at the Guemes Monument as the sunsets on Salta)

After a quick stop back in hostel to freshen up we headed out for dinner at La Casona del Molino (pictured above). This place might be one of the greatest dining experiences I have ever had. Yeah, the food was great and the wine was cheap but it was the atmosphere that really gave me one of those WTF moments. La Casona del Molino is this big 'ol house with different rooms filled with a collection of random tables and chairs. Each room was like its only mini jam session as guitar players and singers mixed in with diners. As you walked through the restaurant one song picked up where another faded away and you could feel the brilliant energy of the space. 

The place was authentic, warm and artistic. It encompassed everything we felt on our first day in Salta. It's funny how 18-hours on a bus can be quickly forgotten with a day of exploring, an afternoon of sunshine and an evening of good wine and great tunes.  I had a feeling this was going to be a good week. 

(Enjoying the tunes at La Casona del Molino after day 1 in Salta)

The Salinas Grandes will make you do gay things (not like there's anything wrong with that). 

Last month my Argentine friend Rocio and I decided to escape the city and head up north to get a taste of life in Argentina's northern provinces of Salta and Jujuy. 

To be honest, before I made the trip to Salta & Jujuy I felt like there had been something missing from this adventure, like I wasn't experiencing everything Argentina had to offer. I have seen some amazing places within the last year but I don't think anything could beat the time I spent in Northern Argentina.  Check back this week to see what I'm talking about. 

"Money isn't everything, but not having it is." 

It's been almost 6-months since my last 'money update' so I figured I'd take some time today to organize my finances and explain how I have kept this dream alive for 9+ months with less than 5k in the original T2T bank account.

If you missed the first Let's Talk Money post you can get caught up on all my spending habits, expenses and income options here. 

My Balance Sheet:

I have less than 1 month left here in Buenos Aires and I just paid my last month's rent ($400), credit card ($170) and student loan ($185) bills. This leaves me just over $300 in the T2T Bank Account for the entire month of July. I'm hoping with this and a little extra income I should be able to make it back to the States before I have to start selling my stuff and/or my body.

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I figure instead of telling you about my great week, I might as well show you. Here's how it played out...

MONDAY: Buenos Aires contemporary artist shmorgishborg @ ArteBA '10

Monday afternoon I went down to La Rural in Plaza Italia to soak up some much needed culture. The coolest thing about Buenos Aires is that it's an artist playground. There are so many insane artists here in Buenos Aires doing incredible stuff. The ArteBA showed off some pretty solid contemporary art from both well-known and underground artists. My Personal favorite? It had to be the sick ATM booth my buddy Tranqui Yanqui setup.

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