First Impressions of Medellin, Colombia

Like every travel agent and Colombian guidebook will tell you, “Medellin is one of Colombia’s safest cities”. One of Colombia’s safest cities who, in 2010, had the highest increase in violence of Colombia’s urban centers.

Although the Medellin River splits through the heart of the city, distinctly dividing central areas and neighborhoods, I don’t think the essence of Medellin will be as easy to decipher.

Upon arrival, I spent my first few nights at the Casa Kiwi Hostel in El Poblado. I was amazed at how sophisticated and westernized everything was. New office buildings and shopping centers were scattered amongst green trees and babbling brooks. The city’s views were stunning and the giant green mountains that surrounded it acted as the perfect backdrop. At night, the streets and parks were illuminated with incredible christmas lights that you could stroll through at any hour and the upscale bars, clubs and restaurants were full. There’s even a Hooters! This isn’t what I expected.

Venturing downtown and then up to the neighborhoods that rise from the valley, you arrive back in South America. I spent the day traversing the city in search of the real Medellin. Although it’s beautiful, I was happy to find out that life in El Poblado isn’t the norm. The 2nd largest city in Colombia, home to 2.4 Million people, wasn’t going to be the same as living in Salt Lake City. I buried my camera deep inside my pocket and walked with my head down along sketchy side-streets and through bustling markets. I quickly evaded two guys trying to test my Spanish (usually the first part before getting jacked) and enjoyed some fresh mango slices from a street vendor in downtown, Bolivar Square. Now we’re talkin’!

Medellin’s tourism marketing campaign is impressive. The arepas and fresh squeezed fruit juices are delicious. The metro system is clean, simple and the perfect tour guide. The construction plans and westernized developments prove why Medellin is known as “Colombia’s industrial capital”. The weather is a perfect 70 degrees and breezy (when it’s not raining) and proves why Medellin is known as “The city of everlasting Spring”. The women are absolutely gorgeous, curvaceous and live up to their reputation as being some of the most beautiful in the world. As well as the Medellin’s reputation for being one of the best places in the world for plastic surgery.

It all seems great if you look quickly. Take a second look, the drug deals are unavoidable. Kids on bikes deliver and corner stores and outdoor gyms are good meeting points. I got through a whole set of pull-ups the other day during a drug bust across the street from place I started working out. The talk of FARC, paramilitary and mafia are just as unavoidable. Maybe they don’t operate (as clearly) in downtown Medellin like Pablo Escobar did but, from what I’ve been told, they sure aren’t dead.

All-in-all my first impressions are… Medellin intrigues me. I’m won’t pretend to understand her complexities or layers just yet but I am excited to learn more. As my salsa teacher says “paso a paso“.

At the same time, it seems like the general rule of thumb here is that you don’t pull back too many layers as to find yourself at the bottom of the Medellin River.

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